The ‘Centro‘ in all its glory
Perhaps one of the most famous parts of Ecuador’s capital city of Quito is the Historic Center or Centro Histórico (from now on, I’ll refer to it as ‘Centro’).
It boasts 60 churches, chapels, monasteries, convents and chapterhouses, making it a true historical gem. In fact, Centro was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978! Due to this status, buildings are required to follow strict guidelines on facade appearance (including paint colors and signage) as well as structural renovations.
Back to Easter
Every year since 1961 (save 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic), the Jesús del Gran Poder procession has taken place on Good Friday in Centro. It is a conmemoration by the local Catholic church of the crucifixion, and for many is a visceral reminder of physical suffering.
The procession is, to a certain degree, a live-action Stations of the Cross. And while the ceremony of 14 stations is often realized within a church, THIS ceremony tours the whole of Centro by foot.
This year, it will take place TODAY (March 29), beginning at noon.
Over the course of about three hours, participants will walk nearly 5km (just over 3mi) up and down the hilly Centro streets.
Who participates?
This year, the Municipality of Quito expects around 100,000 people to take part in the procession, and intentions can range from those who wish to keep tradition alive to those who are performing penance given by a priest.
In addition to tall and heavy holy statues adorned with flowers carried by participants, some of the most iconic “Characters” in the procession include:
Verónicas | Women dressed in purple veils meant to evoke Saint Veronica
Cucuruchos* | People dressed in purple hooded cloaks embodying ‘sinners’ repenting
*Here I’d like to make a note that the clothing of this character may evoke alarm in a US audience due to its design and also clarify that the costume is not related to hate groups and is rather a relic of Spanish tradition.
Roman soldiers escorting Jesus carrying a cross
So where did this tradition come from?
It is believed that a famous Good Friday procession from the city of Sevilla, Spain (also called Jesús del Gran Poder) could have served as inspiration for Friar Francisco Fernández, a local priest looking to reinvigorate religious connection in the people of Quito at the start of the 1960’s.
Similar imagery certainly lends itself to the relation between the two cultural events.
Should I go?
If you’re in the city of Quito during Holy Week, I would definitely recommend attending.
If you decide to go, my suggestions would be to wear comfortable walking shoes and clothes, plenty of sunscreen (that equator UV is no joke!), take water, and make sure to be prepared for crowds!
How can I get there?
The newly-minted Metro could be a great option for transport, considering that most of the roads in Centro will be closed and traffic just outside will be hectic.
For just $0.45 a ride, you can save yourself a lot of time and grief.
Once on the Metro, the San Francisco stop is the one for you and will take you directly to where the procession begins.
Want to learn about more cultural events and festivals in Ecuador?
Let me know!
Thanks for this interesting.story of history and tradition in Ecuador.
Happy Easter
Great tale 🥰